Does anyone make her own soap ? castile soap ?

taltaltaltal Posts: 614Registered Users
Wondering whether anyone makes her own soap.
If yes, how ? What ingredients do you use and what's the procedure ?
Also, do you know of a way to make soap without caostic soda ? Do you know of a subsitute for caustic soda ?

Thanks

Comments

  • kayaellekayaelle Posts: 301Registered Users
    I do. There's lots and lots of info out there on soapmaking... there's no real way to make soap without lye, but there are kits you can buy that are called "melt and pour" where someone else has already made soap with lye and you can shred it, melt it, add things and form your own bars.

    If you don't have lye, you don't have soap. Lye is combined with water and that combo is combined with oils (usually vegetable, like olive oil.. 100% olive oil would be castile) and mixed. at this point it becomes soap.

    There is great info online about soapmaking, or you can pick up a book like "Smart Soapmaking" by Anne Watson. Good luck!
    Rhode Island - New England curly
    2c-3a/F/i (Fia), shoulder length, need it cut!
    Mod-CG since 10/09 - over 1 year!!

    Cleanse: Suave condish, WF 365 lavender poo, soap, BS/ACV
    Leave in: KCKT, CJ CF
    Current winter stylers: CJ SG (HG!), AOMM, Boots, ALWAYS top w/ BRHG
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  • nandiknitsnandiknits Posts: 260Registered Users
    I've been making soap for years. It can be a very complex procedure... the oil and the lye have to be a specific temperature, they have to be mixed in a specific order, etc. Please consult a soap-making book to find recipes. I'm sure there will be lots of info on-line.
    CG since June/09
    3a/b extremely thick, coarse, porous
    Loving AOHR, Biolage Conditioning Balm, KCCC.:glasses8:
  • kayaellekayaelle Posts: 301Registered Users
    nandiknits wrote: »
    I've been making soap for years. It can be a very complex procedure... the oil and the lye have to be a specific temperature, they have to be mixed in a specific order, etc. Please consult a soap-making book to find recipes. I'm sure there will be lots of info on-line.

    I agree!
    Rhode Island - New England curly
    2c-3a/F/i (Fia), shoulder length, need it cut!
    Mod-CG since 10/09 - over 1 year!!

    Cleanse: Suave condish, WF 365 lavender poo, soap, BS/ACV
    Leave in: KCKT, CJ CF
    Current winter stylers: CJ SG (HG!), AOMM, Boots, ALWAYS top w/ BRHG
    PT: AOGPB, Emergencee, CJ CF
    Diffuser dependent!
  • taltaltaltal Posts: 614Registered Users
    Thank you both !
    Yes, I've found a lot of information on the internet. Howevever, I'm quite hesitant to start making my own soap at home since caustic soda is a dangerous substance. (I use it to clear the drainage in the sink ! and only with gloves on ! )
    I've also read that the measurements and the procedure have to be very exact or the soap can be harmful and irritate the skin or even cause burns.

    How do you make sure your soap is safe ? What safety measures do you take when preparing it ? Which tools do you use ?

    And where do you get the caustic soda ? Do you just use the same caustic soda which is sold as a drainage opener ?
  • kayaellekayaelle Posts: 301Registered Users
    As long as you take the proper precautions, the lye won't burn you. I cover myself head to toe and wear eye protection. If you find any decent information out there, it will tell you how to take precautions.

    As long as your drain opener is 100% sodium hydroxide, then yes, it can be used for soap. I was under the impression that lye was not sold in it's pure form as a drain opener in the US. You have to order it from soap making supply websites.

    Most soap recipes will have the oils 5% over what you need for saponification, also called "superfatting" to create a buffer for the lye casuing irritation.

    it sounds like you have some more reading to do and that maybe what you are reading isn't that comprehensive. Here's a good forum for soapmaking: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/
    Rhode Island - New England curly
    2c-3a/F/i (Fia), shoulder length, need it cut!
    Mod-CG since 10/09 - over 1 year!!

    Cleanse: Suave condish, WF 365 lavender poo, soap, BS/ACV
    Leave in: KCKT, CJ CF
    Current winter stylers: CJ SG (HG!), AOMM, Boots, ALWAYS top w/ BRHG
    PT: AOGPB, Emergencee, CJ CF
    Diffuser dependent!
  • taltaltaltal Posts: 614Registered Users
    Thanks again , I meant that I read the soap can cause burns after it is made. After saponification. That is if the amounts of caustic soda, water and oil aren't exact, some of the caustic soda might not undergo saponification and therefore can remain in its dangerous form in the soap bar itself.
    Have you experienced this ? How do you make sure all the caustic soda has indeed undergone saponification and that the soap is ok to use ?
  • eweniqueewenique Posts: 1,502Registered Users Curl Neophyte
    I'm a fairly new soapmaker - less than one year. I also recommend www.soapmakingforum.com for lots of great information, and these sites are good, too: www.millersoap.com and www.colebrothers.com. There are several sites that have a lye calculator which helps you formulate your own soap recipes. My favorite is: www.soapcalc.net.

    You should ALWAYS check any published recipes online or from books with a lye calculator. If you do this, then the soap won't be lye heavy and burn. One way to test if soap is safe is to stick the tip of your tongue on the soap. If it is lye heavy, it will give you a zap. If all you taste is soap, then it is ready to use.

    Homemade soap is great for your skin, and some use it on their hair with good results. (Some find that the soap leaves a buildup over time, and others question the safety of regularly using a high alkaline product on hair. There are lots of old threads about soap/shampoo bars if you decide to read about that topic!)

    If you want to try making soap, read, read, and read. Then gather the necessary supplies, and give it a try using proper safety procedures. I'd suggest starting with a one pound batch and using only a few basic oils like olive, coconut, palm, or lard. There are lots of soapmaking videos in youtube - some are better than others. Have fun!
    2C wavy with some spirals. CG since April 07. Medium texture and porosity.
    COs: Yes to Cucumbers
    Stylers: Miss Jessies Coily Custard, KCCC

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Live Simply. Use Soap
    www.TheLatheredLamb.com
    www.EweniqueEssentials.artfire.com
  • Akua WoodAkua Wood Posts: 23Registered Users
    taltal wrote: »
    Thanks again , I meant that I read the soap can cause burns after it is made. After saponification. That is if the amounts of caustic soda, water and oil aren't exact, some of the caustic soda might not undergo saponification and therefore can remain in its dangerous form in the soap bar itself.
    Have you experienced this ? How do you make sure all the caustic soda has indeed undergone saponification and that the soap is ok to use ?

    Every oil/butter used in soapmaking has a SAP value. This value determines how much caustic soda (NaOH) is needed to saponify the oil.
    For example, to make an olive soap, you need to know the sap value of olive oil which is .135 - this means that for every 1000g of olive oil, you need 135g of NaOH. However, this amount of caustic soda will make the soap rather harsh so you will need to lower the amount.
    There are calculators to help you decide on how much caustic soda you need.

    Another thing to consider is the curing process. This "ages" the soap to help make the soap milder. Water is evaporated during the curing period. Some stipulate 2 - 4 weeks. From my experience as a soapmaker, I tend to leave the soaps much longer.
    A well made soap does not have "active" caustic soda.

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