CurlTalk

confused about humectants & anti-humectants

This week I've ever been CG in really low dews (mid to high teens), and I am noticing my hair feels a little dry and has a lot more surface frizz. My routine has been pretty simple: co-wash, followed by a richer rinse-out, then rake in leave-in and smooth/scrunch in gel. I have been using Garnier Fructis pure clean gel with great success, but now I notice two of the first three ingredients are humectants (sorbitol & glycerin). I tried sealing with argan oil (only oil I had on hand), and I think it made it a little better, but still not great.

I started looking for anti-humectant and glycerine-free products in the product reviews section of this site, but I'm a little confused… many products are described as "anti-humectant," but still have humectants in them?

How does this all work? Can a product have humectants in it and still be anti-humectant overall?

(P.S. product recommendations for low dews are very welcome!)
2b/c, high density
fine, medium porosity, normal elasticity
loves protein, hates polyquats
still searching for HGs

Comments

  • NvmbrCurlssNvmbrCurlss Posts: 732Registered Users
    Oils are very good anti-humectants. I believe glycerin is the biggest humidity/no humidity offender, so when dews dip, I steer clear.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]3B, Fine, Normal P, Normal E, Low-Med D
    LowP: Kinky Curly Come Clean (50% EVOO)
    NoP: As I Am CC
    RO: Suave Coconut, VO5 Shea Cashmere
    LI: KCKT or CJBCLI or HETT/HENOYF (w/ 8 drops GSO)


    "To much is given, much is expected"
  • flippaciousflippacious Posts: 155Registered Users
    Thanks for the response!

    So would you say glycerin is a worse offender than other humectants, like sorbitol, propylene glycol, panthenol etc.? I feel like these ingredients are in everything!

    Every styler I own has glycerin in it, so it looks like I'm off to the stores today... dews are supposed to be in the teens and low 20s for the next five days. :-|
    2b/c, high density
    fine, medium porosity, normal elasticity
    loves protein, hates polyquats
    still searching for HGs
  • NvmbrCurlssNvmbrCurlss Posts: 732Registered Users
    I'd say yes, it can b the pits...
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]3B, Fine, Normal P, Normal E, Low-Med D
    LowP: Kinky Curly Come Clean (50% EVOO)
    NoP: As I Am CC
    RO: Suave Coconut, VO5 Shea Cashmere
    LI: KCKT or CJBCLI or HETT/HENOYF (w/ 8 drops GSO)


    "To much is given, much is expected"
  • morganawanamorganawana Posts: 3Registered Users
    I was also wondering about this...for example Cantu Shea Butter is listed as an anti-humectant product but it still has glycerin in it. Isn't that a contradiction? Would this still be a good product for me to use on the east coast during the winter?
  • Aqua_LilyAqua_Lily Posts: 557Registered Users
    Kinky Curly Knot Today is a humectant free leave in. Kiss My Face Upper Management ( Kiss My Face, OHC, Upper Management, Styling Gel, Grapefruit, 8 fl oz (236 ml) - iHerb.com ) has only one humectant (pathenol) low in the ingredients list.

    These products really saved my hair while temporarily living in an area where even during winter the dew point is 60 to 80.
    4-2.png
    Current length: tailbone
    Goal length: mid-thigh (wet)
    3A/2C M iii med por, high elast

    HGs:
    Clarify: Nivea
    Lo-poo: Nature's Gate
    CW: Elvive Volume Collagen
    RO: EO Keratin, Desert Essence Raspberry

    LI: Elvive volume collagen, KCKT
    Seal: Grapeseed oil
    Gel: Studioline

    PT: EO Keratin co
    DT: RO+oils
    Hairgrowth stim.: JBCO+EVCO


    www.iherb.com 5-10$ discount code:
    VHT541 Many natural hair products! :D
  • flippaciousflippacious Posts: 155Registered Users
    Aqua_Lily wrote: »
    Kinky Curly Knot Today is a humectant free leave in. Kiss My Face Upper Management ( Kiss My Face, OHC, Upper Management, Styling Gel, Grapefruit, 8 fl oz (236 ml) - iHerb.com ) has only one humectant (pathenol) low in the ingredients list.

    These products really saved my hair while temporarily living in an area where even during winter the dew point is 60 to 80.

    Ooh, this stuff looks perfect! And at a great price. I might have to try this... thanks Aqua_Lily for the recommendation!!
    2b/c, high density
    fine, medium porosity, normal elasticity
    loves protein, hates polyquats
    still searching for HGs
  • cholsapplecholsapple Posts: 6Registered Users
    So..."Can a product have humectants in it and still be anti-humectant overall?" I have a ton of products that contain humectants but are labeled anti-humectants. Can this be?
  • Morgan_AdcockMorgan_Adcock Posts: 2,573Registered Users
    Kiss My Face Upper Management has been reformulated, and is now heavy on humectants. (If anyone has any full bottles they'd like to unload at a reasonable price, please PM me.)
    Peace,
    Morgan

    Baby Fine 3B, low porosity, normal density and elasticity
    CGing since July 2008
  • jsuzkelleyjsuzkelley Posts: 610Registered Users
    I don't know anything about the science behind this, but for me the only humectant I really have issues with is glycerin. Other humectants are fine, especially if I use a really moisturizing RO and LI. I wonder if products are labeled as anti-humectants because they contain oils or something that seals the hair, even if they also have humectants in their formulation? Not sure about that one.
    2c/3a, botticelli/wavy/'swavy (huh?)
    fine, dense, normal porosity/elasticity, dry climate
    My favorite brands are Kinky Curly, As I am, Curly Kinks, Curl Junkie, and Darcy's Botanicals. Also love sealing with oils (loving argan oil right now) and styling with jelly products (KCCC is my current favorite). Mostly trying to keep it simple!
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    CG since 12/29/2011 :laughing6:
  • CallyCally Posts: 58Registered Users
    I live in Canada and I am having a really tough time finding products for the winter months. I love my Devacurl but the glycerin is soo drying. Suggestions for products would be wonderful!
    Fine 2c-3a Curls
    Normal porosity/ Medium density
    Henna over color-treated hair
    Not currently CG :(
    Poo: Pureology hydrate
    RO: Pureology hydrate
    LI: HSH Tri-wheat spray
    DT: Coconut oil
    PT: Henna/Cassia
    Styler: AG recoil/mousse-gel
  • Morgan_AdcockMorgan_Adcock Posts: 2,573Registered Users
    I believe that you are correct about the role of well conditioned hair in preventing frizz in low dew points, even with some humectants in almost all hair products. For me, that means using the baptismal / sprinkle rinse rather than rinsing away the bulk of the rinse out conditioner used. Doing that gives all parts of my hair the optimal amount of conditioner it of which it can make use.

    Use of an appropriate amount of the right oil after styling and allowing the hair to complete drying by (ambient) air may frequently also help.
    Peace,
    Morgan

    Baby Fine 3B, low porosity, normal density and elasticity
    CGing since July 2008
  • CallyCally Posts: 58Registered Users
    I am also looking for an anti humectant styler and a lot of them labelled as anti humectant have glycerin in them (middle of list) or propylene glycol... So confused!
    Fine 2c-3a Curls
    Normal porosity/ Medium density
    Henna over color-treated hair
    Not currently CG :(
    Poo: Pureology hydrate
    RO: Pureology hydrate
    LI: HSH Tri-wheat spray
    DT: Coconut oil
    PT: Henna/Cassia
    Styler: AG recoil/mousse-gel
  • curlylox25curlylox25 Posts: 50Registered Users
    I'm having the same problem and I'm going nuts! I am frizzy frizzy and I think it's the humectants but I can't find anything else to use without them in it! Granted, I have not used any oils. What is a good one to try? And would I put it on after my gel?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Geek_ChicGeek_Chic Posts: 1,255Registered Users
    Cally wrote: »
    I am also looking for an anti humectant styler and a lot of them labelled as anti humectant have glycerin in them (middle of list) or propylene glycol... So confused!

    If those "anti-humectant" products that still contain glycerin or propylene glycol have oils or butters or other occlusives higher in the ingredients list, the net effect could well be anti-humectant. The higher amount of oils /butters /occlusives would help mask some (perhaps all) of the drying effect from the humectants, if that makes sense.

    Also, consider relative amounts of ingredients and whether the humectant is strong (glycerin, propylene glycol, some others) or weak (as with hydrolyzed proteins which have humectancy as a secondary attribute). Generally, the ingredients run from most to least in a product. So, humectants in the middle /near the bottom of the list should be less of an issue than humectants higher up. See here: THE NATURAL HAVEN: Why do the first five ingredients on a hair product matter?
    curlylox25 wrote: »
    I'm having the same problem and I'm going nuts! I am frizzy frizzy and I think it's the humectants but I can't find anything else to use without them in it! Granted, I have not used any oils. What is a good one to try? And would I put it on after my gel?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I'm not sure what your hair properties are, but also consider more than just humectants as the culprit for frizz. For instance, fine haired curlies will often get soft but frizzy when they need a good protein boost. So the hair may look dry /frizzy /flyaway, when it's really overconditioned.

    If using oils to "seal", most use a bit of one after their LI, but before gel. Every head of hair is different, and there are exceptions to every rule, but... Finer haired curlies get along better with a lighter oil, such as grapeseed or apricot kernel, while medium to coarse haired people can use heavier oils without getting weighed down or looking greasy. Some oils will penetrate the cuticle with enough time too; coconut and argan are two of these. So, depending on how long you go between washes, you might want to consider using a non-penetrating oil for sealing.

    As far as gels which are truly humectant free, I was going to say Herbal Essences Totally Twisted and Aussie Instant Freeze, till I realized they both have Laureth-23 high in the list. I will say though, that I've used both in dews down into the teens and single digits (with LI underneath) without noticing any increased frizz.
    CG since 11/2011
    2c /3a F /Mii, low porosity

    Go To Products /Routine:
    Clarifying: Suave Essentials Strawberry
    Low Poo: Renpure Luxurious Argan Oil
    CO: Suave Essentials Strawberry, V05 Kiwi Lime
    RO /LI: Tresemme Perfectly (un)Done, Cure Care, V05 Kiwi Lime Squeeze, Suave Essentials Strawberry, Renpure Brazilian Keratin (old formula)
    Stylers: LALSG, AIF, HETT, Suave Professionals Firm Control
    PT: IAGirl's as needed
  • OnduleeOndulee Posts: 1,264Registered Users
    Aqua_Lily wrote: »
    Kinky Curly Knot Today is a humectant free leave in. Kiss My Face Upper Management ( Kiss My Face, OHC, Upper Management, Styling Gel, Grapefruit, 8 fl oz (236 ml) - iHerb.com ) has only one humectant (pathenol) low in the ingredients list.

    These products really saved my hair while temporarily living in an area where even during winter the dew point is 60 to 80.

    this product is discontinued on iherb
    shoulder length inverted bob; fine; 3A-3B; med-thick density; normal porosity; normal elasticity- my hair loves keratin, ACV, silk protein ,Curlkeeper and AG:Recoil ; seems to hate moisturizing products and oils except mineral oil; CG- Jan/'09-mod CG Sept/'09;CG again Jan/'10/mod CG from Mar'10

    receive $10 off 1st order of $40 & up, or $5 off on smaller orders, when using iHERB code: GIK909
  • CallyCally Posts: 58Registered Users
    Thanks for the advice.
    I was browsing through the hair care isle the other day and I saw some gels with alcohol in them, should I be avoiding that too?
    Fine 2c-3a Curls
    Normal porosity/ Medium density
    Henna over color-treated hair
    Not currently CG :(
    Poo: Pureology hydrate
    RO: Pureology hydrate
    LI: HSH Tri-wheat spray
    DT: Coconut oil
    PT: Henna/Cassia
    Styler: AG recoil/mousse-gel
  • Geek_ChicGeek_Chic Posts: 1,255Registered Users
    Fatty alcohols are fine, they help keep hair moisturized. Drying ones are not.

    Some fatty alcohols:
    Provide emollient effect, lubricity, emulsion stabilization:
    • Behenyl alcohol
    • Cetearyl alcohol
    • Cetyl alcohol
    • Isocetyl alcohol
    • Isostearyl alcohol
    • Lauryl alcohol
    • Myristyl alcohol
    • Stearyl alcohol
    • C30-50 Alcohols
    • Lanolin alcohol
    Some drying alcohols:
    Used a solvent, can be drying to the hair:
    • SD alcohol 40
    • Witch hazel
    • Isopropanol
    • Ethanol
    • Alcohol Denat. (Denatured Alcohol)
    • Isopropyl alcohol
    ETA: Handy reference page, though not all inclusive is here: Ingredients Commonly Found in Hair-Care Products
    CG since 11/2011
    2c /3a F /Mii, low porosity

    Go To Products /Routine:
    Clarifying: Suave Essentials Strawberry
    Low Poo: Renpure Luxurious Argan Oil
    CO: Suave Essentials Strawberry, V05 Kiwi Lime
    RO /LI: Tresemme Perfectly (un)Done, Cure Care, V05 Kiwi Lime Squeeze, Suave Essentials Strawberry, Renpure Brazilian Keratin (old formula)
    Stylers: LALSG, AIF, HETT, Suave Professionals Firm Control
    PT: IAGirl's as needed
  • etosetos Posts: 221Registered Users
    In short:

    low dews (<40):
    -no humectants
    -less stylers/stylers with less hold
    -more moisture/conditioner

    moderate dews (40-60)
    -humectants
    -moderate amount of stylers and conditioner

    high dews (60+)
    -no humectants
    -more stylers/stylers with more hold
    -less moisture/conditoner
    highlighted 3a hair. Fine strands, medium to high density. Probably high porosity. Growing uit bad layering and aiming for waist lenght!

    Pre-poo: coconut oil
    wash: CJ Daily fix or SheaMoisture Coconut&Hibiscus
    RO + LI: different every time
    Styler: CJ Pattern Pusha, CJ CIAB

    dislikes: glycerin in low dews, scissor happy stylists, magnesium sulfate

    (modified) CG since june 25, 2012
    Hiarfinity + extra MSM since March 5., 2014

    SL - APL - BSBL- BSL - MBL - WL (stretched)
  • Wavygirl1Wavygirl1 Posts: 165Registered Users
    etos wrote: »
    In short:
    high dews (60+)
    -no humectants
    -more stylers
    -less moisture/conditoner
    I knew about no humectants but not more styler and less moisture/conditioner, please elaborate. I live with year round high dews and this May help me figure why my hair looks awful all the time despite following the 'rules'.
    2a/b, med/high porosity, high density, fine texture
  • etosetos Posts: 221Registered Users
    Well, in high dewponts, there is already much moisture in the air. Your hair and the air will always try to make things even (same amout of water in your hair and in the air).

    So, if the dewpoint is either high or low, you have to 'block' this effect, using anti-humectants (like oils and butters). This prevent the water coming out of your hair in low dewpoints, and coming in to your hair in high dewpoints. Nevertheless, it won't work for a full 100%, so in high dewpoints there will come more water in your hair. Moisture (=water) is good, but to much moisture will make your hair poofy, frizzy and overly soft. If you have over-moisturized hair, you can skip your leave-in and just use a (strong hold) gel (whitout humectants) and a pomade/oil after your rinse-out conditioner.
    highlighted 3a hair. Fine strands, medium to high density. Probably high porosity. Growing uit bad layering and aiming for waist lenght!

    Pre-poo: coconut oil
    wash: CJ Daily fix or SheaMoisture Coconut&Hibiscus
    RO + LI: different every time
    Styler: CJ Pattern Pusha, CJ CIAB

    dislikes: glycerin in low dews, scissor happy stylists, magnesium sulfate

    (modified) CG since june 25, 2012
    Hiarfinity + extra MSM since March 5., 2014

    SL - APL - BSBL- BSL - MBL - WL (stretched)