Help: Under-layer shrinks more than top

Forgive me if I'm not using the correct terminology, but the under-layer of my hair (is there a name for that?) shrinks more than the layer on top, so it makes the bottom few inches of my hair look really thin.

I don't know if it's a different curl type or just that the hair on top has lost some curl from sun exposure, etc.

I think they're both pretty, but since I want my hair to look longer, I would like to maximize the length of the under-layer so it matches. My stylist suggested putting metal clips on the bottom of the curls I want to stretch as they dry, but that's a lot of curls!

Currently, I put KCKT onto my wet hair, comb it through, scrunch out excess water with a flour-sack towel and sit under a hard-bonnet dryer until it's nearly dry. When I have the patience, I clip at my part before drying.

Suggestions? I'd appreciate any advice!
*3B, medium/fine, normal porosity, normal elasticity, shoulder-length when dry.


  • tricellotricello Posts: 95Registered Users
    When I first got my hair cut as I started going curly, I had this problem. For me, it is a combination of 1) my hair being finer underneath so there is less weight to pull it down; 2) my hair hitting my collar which causes the underneath hair to bunch up; and 3) a big nasty cowlick near the nape of my neck. My fix was to take two duck bill clips – stretch my underneath hair down and put one on the right and left side to hold it in place. Then I would diffuse the area for about 5 minutes. That helped A LOT.

    Now that my hair has grown in a couple of inches, there is enough weight to pull down on its own – except for the nasty cowlick which still puffs up my hair unless I tame it.

    High Density, High Porosity, Medium Texture, 3B with some kink

    DT: SS DDMT - HG
    Lo-Poo: No Preference
    Co-wash: CJ Smoothing Conditioner
    RO: CJ Strengthening Conditioner - HG
    LI: CK Satin Roots
    Styler: CK Coil Jam
    Other Likes: Castor Oil; CK Twist Whip, MD CSC
    Dislikes: Wheat Protein; Aloe LIs or Stylers

  • CalendulaCalendula Posts: 60Registered Users
    Thanks so much, Tricello! I think the collar thing applies to me too. I never thought of it.

    I will try your suggestion tomorrow.
    *3B, medium/fine, normal porosity, normal elasticity, shoulder-length when dry.
  • kathymackkathymack Posts: 9,999Registered Users
    Top layer is called the canopy. Your assumption about it being less curly because of exposure (not only sun, but wind and other elements, too) is correct.

    I find that frequent haircuts help a lot. My fine/low porosity hair loves protein. I do at least one PT a week and use a lot of products with protein. You might find that helps a bit. Keeping the moisture/protein balance right helps, too. I use minute amounts of really rich products, in addition to moisturizing PTs, so don't need to DT.

    My hair didn't find KCKT moisturizing enough. Using a protein and more moisturizing products might get the curl to match--but the other way around. Your canopy may become healthier and match the underneath!
    3a (Corkicelli), highlighted, fine, low porosity
    SE PA

    HGs: Anything Sevi; Curly Kinks Satin Roots, Curlycue ReNew and Coil Jam; homemade FSG and okra gel; soap bars; UFD Curly Magic; Botanical Spirits Jellies, CJ Repair Me, Aloe Fix
  • CalendulaCalendula Posts: 60Registered Users
    Thanks, kathymack!
    *3B, medium/fine, normal porosity, normal elasticity, shoulder-length when dry.